A Boulangerie next door!
As a matter of fact under me! Seriously yummy and this morning I woke up of the sound of shop shutters being opened, a couple of kids playing and the smell of freshly baked bread.
Now the question is: Do I allow myself to eat bread? I have been removing it from my diet during the last 6 months. Did I not say though I could have it in the weekend???
After a brisk morning walk around Collioure and a climb up to the local mill, I decided I could not resist a croissant au beurre and a bag of dark red juicy cherries – the latter approximately and appropriately priced at 3.90 Euros per kilo. I hereby like to challenge you, Australia. If France can do this, why can’t you?
The town of Collioure
Collioure is absolutely gorgeous. It is full of colour and I am talking about warm sunny colours – oranges, yellows and pinks. It makes everything look nice and in the sunshine it is even more attractive.
Collioure is the place where the likes of Henri Matisse and Andre Derain used to hang out in the summer of 1905. Throughout the village on the walls you will find a trail called ‘Le Chemin du Fauvism’ (path of Fauvism) of 20 reproductions of both painters.
The town of Collioure is divided into two parts, equally interesting. They are kind of separated by a castle called ‘Le Chateau Royal’ that dates back to the 13th century. The old part of town – Le More, where sailors and fishermen used to live, has no car access and is full of quirky artistic shops selling classy products and even more sassy places to eat.
Walking along the castle brings you to another part, also old but more residential and with car access. I am happy that I am not staying there as the width of the roads is about the same as my car.
Things to do at night
As a woman by myself I wasn’t sure what to do at night but nevertheless I ventured out on my own in search for a glass of rose. None of the more touristy restaurants appealed to me and I walked over to the residential area. When I was looking for accommodation there was some in that part of town but I had to book 3 days and I only wanted to stay for 2 nights.
There wasn’t much happening in this part of town but my eye caught a little place that looked like a bar. I went inside, ordered a glass of Rose and was observed by the people who were there. This little place was a hangout for locals and off course I got to know some of them.
The owner was a guy in his fifties,an absolute passionate cook who made all the dishes on order by himself. The menu was inspired by spices used in the Lebanese and Moroccan cuisine.
There was a bar with space for about 4-5 people and he prepared everything right in front of us. Additional seating area was nothing more than 2 small tables. In total there was place for less than 10 people and it was packed.
He cooked, he talked, he greeted everybody including men with two kisses and he drank. Everytime someone bought a glass he had one himself. He must have had at least 3-4 glasses of wine before he started with rum. One of the locals I met told me that this place attracted local restaurateurs and shop owners who come to relax and have a good bite to eat.
I can see why, as the food was yummy, different and so very home cooked. It was a pleasure to see the love and fun this guy put in his dishes and dealing with his customers. Another little gem!
Next stop Ceret and the Tech Valley, home of the cherry.